The Complete Rolex Submariner Guide: History, References & Which One to Buy

There probably isn't another luxury watch in the world as recognisable as the Rolex Submariner.

You don't need to know watches to know what one is. Black dial, rotating bezel, Oyster bracelet. It is a design that has been copied thousands of times, but somehow the original still looks right more than 70 years after it first appeared.

The interesting part is that the Submariner was never designed to become a luxury status symbol.

It was built as a tool.

Rolex launched the Submariner in 1953 as a purpose-built diving watch, waterproof to 100 metres and fitted with a rotating bezel that allowed divers to keep track of their time underwater.

Fast forward to today and the modern Submariner is waterproof to 300 metres, built using ceramic, sapphire crystal and modern Rolex movements, and is probably just as likely to be spotted in a boardroom as it is anywhere near the ocean.

I've bought, sold and handled a lot of Submariners over the years, from modern ceramic models through to older five-digit references and vintage pieces. What I like about the range is that there really isn't one "best" Submariner.

A 5513, a 16610 and a 126610 are all very clearly the same watch, but they feel completely different on the wrist.

So if you're looking to buy a Rolex Submariner, or you just want to understand how we got from the early diving watches of the 1950s to the modern models we have today, this is the guide I would want to read.

Where the Rolex Submariner Started

Rolex had been working on waterproof watches long before the Submariner appeared.

The Oyster case was patented in 1926, and the company's obsession with waterproofness continued through the following decades.

By the early 1950s, recreational and professional diving was becoming increasingly popular. Rolex developed a watch specifically for use underwater and launched the Submariner in 1953.

The original Submariner was waterproof to 100 metres.

That might not sound particularly impressive compared with modern dive watches, but in 1953 it was a serious piece of equipment.

The rotating bezel allowed a diver to measure elapsed time underwater, while the large luminous markers and hands were designed to remain readable in poor visibility.

It established the basic formula that Rolex has really never moved away from.

A black dial.

Large luminous hour markers.

Mercedes hour hand.

Rotating timing bezel.

Oyster bracelet.

Screw-down crown.

More than seven decades later, the current Submariner still follows the same basic layout.

That is probably the most impressive thing about it.

The Early Rolex Submariners

The very earliest Submariners are a complicated subject in their own right.

References including the 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536 and 6538 appeared during the 1950s, with Rolex constantly developing the design.

Cases changed.

Crowns changed.

Hands changed.

Depth ratings changed.

There are countless dial and bezel variations that collectors can spend years learning.

For most people, though, there are a few early references worth knowing.

Rolex Submariner 6204

The reference 6204 is generally recognised as one of the first production Rolex watches to carry the Submariner name.

It looks surprisingly delicate compared with the watch we know today.

There were no crown guards, the case was smaller, and early examples could have pencil-style hands rather than the Mercedes hands we now associate with the Submariner.

The DNA is there, but it hadn't quite become the Submariner we recognise today.

Rolex Submariner 6538

If you've ever looked into vintage Rolex, you've probably come across the 6538.

This is the famous "Big Crown" Submariner, named for its oversized winding crown.

It is also strongly associated with Sean Connery's James Bond.

Connery wore a Submariner in the early Bond films, which helped cement the model's place outside the world of professional diving.

Today, good 6538s are serious collector watches and priced accordingly.

They also show just how different vintage Rolex collecting is from buying a modern Submariner.

With watches this old, originality matters enormously. Dial, hands, bezel insert, crown, case condition and previous servicing can completely change both desirability and value.

The Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513

For me, this is where the Submariner really settles into the shape we know today.

Rolex introduced the reference 5512 in 1959.

One of the most important changes was the addition of crown guards around the winding crown.

The case also grew to approximately 40mm.

Then came the reference 5513 in the early 1960s.

Visually, the 5512 and 5513 can look incredibly similar, especially to someone who isn't deep into vintage Rolex.

The biggest distinction historically was that the 5512 became the chronometer-certified version, while the 5513 generally used non-chronometer movements.

Both references had very long production runs and went through numerous dial, lume and case variations.

This is also why you need to be careful when buying vintage Rolex.

Two watches carrying the same reference number can be separated by 10 or 20 years and look noticeably different.

A beautiful original matte-dial 5513 is a very different proposition from a later service-heavy example, even though the number between the lugs says the same thing.

The First Rolex Submariner Date: Reference 1680

The date window seems so natural on a Submariner now that it is easy to forget it wasn't always there.

The reference 1680 introduced the Submariner Date at the end of the 1960s.

Rolex added a date window at 3 o'clock along with the Cyclops magnifier on the crystal.

Early versions are particularly famous for having the word "Submariner" printed in red on the dial.

These watches are now simply known as Red Submariners.

Later 1680s changed to white text.

The 1680 is important because it represents the point where the Submariner started becoming more than purely a diving tool.

A date display makes sense on an everyday watch.

And that is really what the Submariner became.

Rolex Submariner 16800: The Transitional Sub

The 16800 is one of my favourite periods of Submariner because it sits right between vintage and modern Rolex.

It arrived around the end of the 1970s and brought some major upgrades.

The acrylic crystal was replaced by sapphire.

Water resistance increased to 300 metres.

The bezel became unidirectional, an important safety feature on a proper dive watch.

But early examples can still have the matte dials and painted hour markers that collectors associate with vintage Rolex.

Later examples moved to glossy dials with white gold surrounds around the hour markers.

That makes the 16800 a genuine transitional reference.

An early one can look like a vintage Rolex while giving you some of the improvements we associate with later watches.

For someone wanting vintage character without going all the way back to a 5513 or 1680, a good 16800 makes a lot of sense.

Just make sure you know exactly what you're looking at.

Correctness matters.

Rolex Submariner 16610: The Five-Digit Classic

If someone asked me to picture a Rolex Submariner without giving me a reference, there is a good chance I'd picture a 16610.

Rolex introduced the reference 16610 around 1988 and kept it in production until 2010.

That is a seriously long run.

The watch has a 40mm steel case, black aluminium bezel insert, sapphire crystal, 300 metres of water resistance and Rolex's calibre 3135.

The 3135 has built a reputation as one of Rolex's great workhorse movements.

The 16610 also went through plenty of smaller changes during its production life.

Earlier watches can have tritium lume, drilled lug holes and older bracelet construction.

Later examples received Super-LumiNova, solid end links and other incremental updates.

This is one reason I think the 16610 is such an interesting buy today.

You get the proportions and lighter feel of an older Rolex without going properly vintage.

The aluminium bezel has a warmth that ceramic doesn't.

The case is slimmer.

The bracelet feels lighter.

It wears like an old-school sports Rolex.

Put a 16610 beside a modern 126610 and there is no question which one feels more substantial.

But substantial doesn't automatically mean better.

There is a charm to the five-digit watches that Rolex simply doesn't make anymore.

The Rolex Submariner 16610LV "Kermit"

In 2003, Rolex celebrated 50 years of the Submariner with something that was pretty wild by Rolex standards at the time.

They made the bezel green.

The reference 16610LV became known by collectors as the Kermit.

It combined a green aluminium bezel insert with a black dial and larger "Maxi" hour markers.

Today we're used to coloured Rolex sports watches, but the Kermit was a major departure when it appeared.

It also became the beginning of a run of green Submariners that would eventually include the Hulk and the current green-bezel model commonly called the Starbucks.

Early Kermits are particularly collectible, especially the variations collectors refer to as Flat Four examples.

As always with this sort of Rolex, small details can make surprisingly large differences to value.

If you're buying one, don't just compare reference numbers.

Compare the actual watch.

The Ceramic Rolex Submariner 116610

In 2010 the Submariner Date received one of its biggest modern updates.

The reference 116610 arrived with a ceramic Cerachrom bezel, redesigned case, substantially upgraded bracelet and clasp, and a much heavier overall feel.

Although the case was still officially 40mm, it wore considerably larger than the 16610 it replaced.

Collectors generally call this the "Super Case" generation because of its broad lugs and chunkier crown guards.

The bracelet was a huge improvement.

Earlier Oyster bracelets were perfectly functional, but the modern solid-link bracelet and Glidelock clasp took the Submariner into a different league.

The Glidelock system allows the bracelet size to be adjusted without tools.

It was designed to help divers fit the watch over a wetsuit, but in reality most owners probably use it because their wrist changes size depending on the weather.

It is brilliant.

Rolex Submariner 116610LV "Hulk"

Then there is the Hulk.

Reference 116610LV.

Green ceramic bezel.

Green dial.

There is absolutely nothing subtle about it.

Rolex released the Hulk in 2010 and discontinued it in 2020.

During that decade it went from being a slightly odd green Submariner to one of the most recognisable modern Rolex sports models.

Personally, I think the dial makes the watch.

The green changes dramatically depending on the light. Indoors it can look quite dark, then outside it becomes much brighter.

It is also completely different from the Kermit.

People group them together because they're both green Submariners, but the feel on the wrist isn't remotely the same.

The Kermit is still basically a five-digit Submariner with a coloured bezel.

The Hulk feels modern.

Heavier case.

Ceramic bezel.

Modern bracelet.

Modern clasp.

Green everywhere.

If you want a Submariner that doesn't just look like every other black Submariner, the Hulk makes a pretty convincing argument.

The Current Rolex Submariner: 124060 and 126610

Rolex updated the Submariner again in 2020.

The big headline was the move to a 41mm case.

The no-date Submariner became reference 124060.

The steel Submariner Date became reference 126610LN with the black bezel, while the green bezel version became reference 126610LV.

Interestingly, even though the case grew from 40mm to 41mm on paper, many people find the new generation more balanced than the outgoing 116610.

The lugs became slimmer and the proportions changed.

It is a good example of why case diameter alone doesn't tell you how a watch will wear.

The 124060 uses Rolex calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date uses calibre 3235.

Both offer approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

The current Submariner is still waterproof to 300 metres and retains the ceramic bezel, Oyster bracelet and Glidelock clasp.

It is, objectively, probably the best Submariner Rolex has ever made from a technical perspective.

Whether it is the Submariner you actually want is another question.

Kermit vs Hulk vs Starbucks

If you're looking at a green Rolex Submariner, these are the three names you'll hear constantly.

Model	Reference	Production	Dial	Bezel	Case
Kermit	16610LV	2003 to 2010	Black	Green aluminium	40mm
Hulk	116610LV	2010 to 2020	Green	Green ceramic	40mm
Starbucks	126610LV	2020 onwards	Black	Green ceramic	41mm

So which one would I buy?

It completely depends on what you want.

Buy the Kermit if:

You like the older five-digit Rolex proportions.

You want something collectible.

You prefer aluminium bezels.

You want a green Submariner that still feels relatively understated.

Buy the Hulk if:

You want the greenest possible Submariner.

You like the heavier six-digit Rolex feel.

You want a discontinued modern reference.

You don't mind your watch getting attention.

Buy the Starbucks if:

You want the newest generation.

You want the 70-hour power reserve.

You prefer a black dial over the Hulk's green.

You want something you can comfortably wear every day without worrying about vintage originality.

Of the three, I think the Kermit has the most old-school charm.

The Hulk has the most personality.

The current 126610LV is probably the easiest one to live with.

Rolex 16610 vs 116610 vs 126610

This is another comparison that comes up constantly.

You could argue these three watches represent three generations of the modern Submariner.

16610

The lightest and most traditional feeling.

Aluminium bezel.

Slimmer case.

Older bracelet and clasp.

40mm.

Plenty of vintage Rolex feel without actually being a vintage watch.

116610

Ceramic bezel.

40mm Super Case.

Much heavier bracelet.

Glidelock clasp.

Chunkier wrist presence.

This is probably the biggest jump in feel between two consecutive Submariner generations.

126610

41mm case.

Slimmer lugs than the 116610.

Modern calibre 3235.

Approximately 70-hour power reserve.

Ceramic bezel.

Glidelock clasp.

The most refined of the three.

If you like older Rolex, I'd look hard at a 16610.

If you like the chunky modern sports Rolex look, the 116610 still has a lot going for it.

If you just want the best all-round modern Submariner, the 126610 is hard to argue against.

Should You Buy a Submariner With or Without a Date?

This is personal preference.

The no-date Submariner is cleaner.

There is something very satisfying about the symmetry of the dial without the date window and Cyclops.

It is also closer in spirit to the original Submariner.

The Submariner Date is more practical.

Most people wear these watches every day rather than using them as diving equipment, and having a date is useful.

If I was buying one watch to wear every day, I'd probably take the date.

If I already owned several watches and wanted the purest version of a Submariner, I'd take the no-date.

There isn't a wrong answer.

Is a Rolex Submariner a Good Investment?

This is where things get dangerous.

People hear "Rolex" and "investment" in the same sentence and assume everything with a crown on the dial is guaranteed to go up in value.

It isn't.

Some Submariners have performed incredibly well over long periods.

Certain vintage references, rare dial variations, Kermits, Hulks and other desirable models have all seen substantial changes in value.

But that doesn't mean you can buy any Submariner at any price and make money.

Purchase price matters.

Condition matters.

Originality matters.

Reference matters.

Whether the watch has been heavily polished matters.

Service parts matter, particularly on vintage pieces.

Box and papers can matter.

Most importantly, the market matters.

I think the better way to look at a Submariner is to buy the example you actually want to own.

If it holds its value well, great.

If it appreciates, even better.

But don't buy a watch you don't particularly like because somebody on the internet told you it was an investment.

What Should You Check When Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner?

This is probably more important than which reference you choose.

A cheap Submariner can become an expensive Submariner very quickly if you buy the wrong one.

Here are some of the main things I look at.

Case condition

Has the watch been polished?

If so, how heavily?

Polishing isn't automatically bad, despite what the internet sometimes suggests.

A light, well-executed refinish can make a watch look fantastic.

The problem is aggressive polishing that removes too much material and changes the shape of the case.

Look at the lugs, crown guards and overall symmetry.

Dial and hands

On modern watches, you're mainly checking condition and authenticity.

On vintage Rolex, it becomes much more complicated.

Are the dial and hands original to the watch?

Do they make sense for the production period?

Have they been replaced during a Rolex service?

Has lume been relumed?

A service dial can make an old watch more usable, but it can also significantly affect collector value.

Bezel and insert

Again, this becomes particularly important on older Submariners.

An original vintage bezel insert can be worth serious money on its own.

A later service insert might look cleaner but be less desirable to a collector.

Bracelet condition

Check for bracelet stretch.

Some movement between links is completely normal on an older bracelet.

Severe stretch is another matter.

Also check whether the bracelet and clasp are correct for the watch and production period if originality is important to you.

Movement and timekeeping

A beautiful watch can still need thousands of dollars spent on servicing.

Ask about service history where available.

Check that the movement winds, sets and runs correctly.

A timegrapher reading can be useful, but it isn't the only measure of movement condition.

Box and papers

Box and papers are nice to have.

They can add value.

They can make a watch easier to sell later.

But I would take an excellent watch without papers over a poor watch with papers every day of the week.

You wear the watch, not the warranty card.

Vintage, Neo-Vintage or Modern Submariner?

This is probably the easiest way to narrow down your choice.

Buy vintage if:

You care about originality, patina and collecting.

You enjoy researching dial variations and production details.

You're comfortable owning something that requires a little more care.

Buy five-digit or neo-vintage if:

You want some old Rolex charm without going fully vintage.

You like aluminium bezels and slimmer cases.

You want something you can still wear regularly.

Buy modern if:

You want maximum durability.

You prefer ceramic bezels and solid bracelets.

You want the best clasp and movement technology.

You don't want to spend your life worrying whether your bezel insert is a Mark 1, Mark 2 or Mark 37.

There is something to be said for just wearing the thing.

Which Rolex Submariner Would I Buy?

If you want one Submariner to wear every day and never think about it, I'd buy a modern 126610LN.

It does everything well.

The proportions are good, the bracelet and clasp are excellent, the movement has a long power reserve and you can wear it virtually anywhere.

If you want something with more personality, I'd look at a 16610.

I think five-digit Rolex is in a really interesting place.

The watches still feel modern enough to wear every day, but they come from a period before Rolex sports watches became quite as heavy and substantial as they are now.

If you want something collectible, that's when I'd start looking at pieces like the Kermit, good matte-dial vintage Subs, interesting transitional watches and genuinely correct early examples.

That is also the point where I'd be much more selective about the exact watch rather than just the reference number.

Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner in Australia

There are plenty of ways to buy a Rolex Submariner in Australia.

Authorised dealers.

Pre-owned dealers.

Auction houses.

Private sellers.

Facebook groups.

Online marketplaces.

Overseas dealers.

All of them have their place.

For me, the most important thing is understanding exactly what you're buying and who you're buying it from.

The cheapest listing isn't always the cheapest watch.

Import costs, GST, servicing, missing links, incorrect parts, poor polishing or an undisclosed problem can very quickly wipe out whatever you thought you saved.

Buying from an Australian business also gives you the advantage of dealing locally, paying in Australian dollars and avoiding the unknown costs that can come with importing a watch yourself.

At The Time Syndicate, we buy, sell and trade pre-owned luxury watches across Australia, with a strong focus on Rolex and other major Swiss watch brands.

Our stock changes constantly and plenty of watches sell before they ever make it onto the website.

If you're looking for a particular Rolex Submariner reference, get in touch. We may already have something incoming.

Buying a Rolex in Hobart or Tasmania

The Time Syndicate is based in Hobart, Tasmania.

For Tasmanian buyers, that means there is actually a local option for buying, selling and trading luxury watches without having to deal exclusively with businesses on the mainland.

We work with clients throughout Hobart, Launceston and across Tasmania, as well as buying and selling watches Australia-wide.

Whether you're looking for your first Rolex Submariner, chasing a particular reference, considering a trade or wanting to sell a watch from your collection, feel free to reach out.

And if you're hunting for something specific, follow The Time Syndicate on Instagram.

A lot of our incoming watches are shown on Instagram Stories first, and some sell there before they ever make it onto the website.

Final Thoughts

More than 70 years after it first appeared, the Rolex Submariner is still basically doing the same thing.

The materials are better.

The movements are better.

The bracelets are better.

But the watch itself hasn't lost the original idea.

That's why the Submariner works.

You can buy a 5513 from the 1960s, a 16610 from the 1990s or a brand new 126610 and there is absolutely no mistaking what any of them are.

Personally, I wouldn't get too caught up trying to work out which Submariner the internet thinks is best.

Work out which generation you like.

Then buy the best example of it you can find.

That's usually the better way to buy watches.

Looking for a Rolex Submariner?

View our current Rolex watches online, or contact The Time Syndicate if you're chasing a particular reference.

We buy, sell and trade luxury watches from Hobart, Tasmania and work with clients Australia-wide.